The flight to Paro is not for the fainthearted. As the plane touches down between mountain monasteries and glacial rivers, passengers crowd to the plane’s windows, watching as the wings skirt the valley walls. As soon as you step into Bhutan’s famously clean air, you’ll feel the sense of magic that permeates throughout this spellbinding nation. A short drive will take you to the first of Bhutan’s storied ‘dzong’ palace-forts – Simtokha Dzong (Sangkak Zabdhon Phodrang) “Palace of the Profound Meaning of Secret Mantras”.